Different Goodbyes

Sonam Wangmo called around 4:30 to have us meet her and Jamyang for coffee. We went to a cute, modern coffee shop/Korean restaurant/boutique – the kind of establishment that makes one feel that they are in New York City or Hong Kong rather than Bhutan. We sipped flavored coffees and laughed and chatted and enjoyed each other’s company.

Next stop – Buddha Point, in the dust from trucks still on duty (Buddha Point is not done being constructed) passing quickly by and the cold wind getting brisker by the moment. We took funny photos and by the time we walked back to Sonam’s car, the sun had set and the Trashicchoe Dzong was lit up in LED lights white and red, a nightly landmark much larger than the also lit – although much gaudier – Memorial Chorten. The car winded down the road and Scott and I got let out a bit above town to pick up a bottle of Special Courier whiskey we had in the hotel room – a house gift for Nancy’s dinner.

After the quick hotel stop, we maneuvered our way through Thimphu’s streets for the last time and arrived at Nancy’s right at 6:30. Jamyang and Matt were already there, a table of appetizers between them, Sonam taking a shower (the water at her house had been frozen). We got drinks served before the final guests arrived – Aum Pek and Dasho Kinley.

We had the most delicious dinner of roast chicken (a local Bhutanese chicken; not a skinny, frozen chicken from India that we had become accustomed to), mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, gravy, stuffing, salad with dressing, broccoli, vegetables, and wine. The meal was exquisite, especially for our chili-and-cheese palette, and decadent. I could’ve eaten forever.

It’s funny how Scott and I spent our last nights in Thimphu with Nancy – one night at Seasons with Nicole, Katie, and Matt – and tonight at her house. Although head of the Bhutan-Canada Foundation, the organization that brought Scott and I to Bhutan, Nancy played a bit role in our experience in Bhutan. But she made sure to give us a nice departure, our stomachs full.

Sonam and Jamyang dropped us off back at the Tandin Hotel. We hugged our goodbyes and even though it could be farewell forever, I don’t think it will be. There are different goodbyes. The ones that will stick – the lingering looks, the real look of departing, which is what I had with Dechen (I will never forget her face when she turned one last time to see me) and Sir Phuntsho – looks of resignation, of finality. With Sonam, it felt different, like leaving Bhutan altogether, doesn’t feel real. Maybe because I hope it’s not.

Phuentsholing tomorrow. Another chapter.