Angkor Wat Revisited

Throughout our travels this year, Scott has often lamented how he wishes he could’ve seen the places we were visiting 30 years ago – before the hordes of backpackers and tourists, before the restaurants with all the same menus, before it cost money to cross a footbridge. 

Well, thirty years ago, I was an infant. But eleven years ago, I was a traveler and I visited the enchanting Angkor Wat when the city of Siem Reap was on the verge of major change. There were guest houses and tourist restaurants but it was on a small scale. My memory of Siem Reap in no way resembled the overcrowded city Siem Reap is today.

No matter when one goes to Angkor Wat – today, yesterday, 25 years ago, in 2081 – it will impress. There’s no question about it. It’s the things associated with the temple complex – Siem Reap, the number of people urging you to buy a cold drink, the upkeep of the temples, and number of tourists – that can change the temple experience. 

In 2001, you could walk around a temple and see, at most, ten other people. Usually it was more like three or four other tourists that were viewing one of the temples the same time you were. Now, there could be up to 100 people crowding your walking and viewing space. Last time I was at the Angkor Wat temple complex, there were many children begging, children with missing body parts. In 2001, they were a sad, in-your-face reminder of Cambodia’s recent past. This time, there were no kids with missing body parts and, instead of simply begging, they were selling postcards and fans and trinkety bracelets, and they could count to twenty in at least ten different languages (this skill was used to advertise just how many postcards you could get for one dollar). 

This recent experience of Angkor was completely different than my last. Scott and I rode bicycles which was a perfect way to get around the temple complex as the surrounding area is flat and the temples are spaced at bicycle-appropriate distances. We left the Yellow Guesthouse at 5:15 am, got to Angkor Wat around 5:40 for sunrise, and didn’t leave until 6 pm (the single-day tickets are only good until 5:30 pm). We did the Grand Circuit around the Angkor Wat complex, starting at the more minor temples, leaving Angkor Thom, Angkor Wat, and Ta Prahm for last. 

The many faces of Bayon.

 

I have to admit that I was disappointed with Angkor Wat, which is supposed to be, and usually is, a steady favorite. The large middle section of the front was covered in green tarp and scaffolding, making the magical walk down the path leading to the three-spired temple not so magical. The thing is, even if there wasn’t any green tarp, there still wouldn’t be any good photo opportunities as there are just too many tourists (me included) blocking the ideal shot. 

 

Ta Prahm with its towering trees and monstrous roots entangled within the temple was still great but a bit of a let-down as well with many sections of the temple roped off for safety precautions, a wooden walkway, and restoration equipment (like a large yellow crane) left throughout.

Even though the temperature was as hot as it’s been thus far in Cambodia and it was dusty, Scott and I had a great time. And despite whatever flaws I may have just pointed out, or whatever flaws you may see on your visit, Angkor Wat is just amazing, and always will be.