wan·der·lust

From reporting in Wrangell to teaching in Tanzania and Bhutan to, now, transitioning to life in the capital city of Juneau – some words on a life in flux.

09 February 2011

VIPs

Today I wore a kira and had many people tell me, “You look like a Bhutanese.” I can look many things - Chinese in China, Thai in Thailand, Bhutanese in Bhutan, and even when I wore a Native parka, I could look Eskimo in Barrow.

Scott opted for the formal western wear.

The occasion for the kira was a meeting with the District Education Officer (DEO) of Trashigang Dzongkhag - a Dzongkhag is a district. Originally my principal, Tenzin, made the appointment for me to meet the DEO, something that BCF wanted each of their teachers to do. Since there are many of us in the Trashigang District, BCF figured we'd all better meet the DEO at the same time together. That means Scott and I, Maureen and John who are posted in Wamrong, Shauna and Julian who are posted in Bartsham, Vicky and Ian who are posted in Rangjung, and Jean Daniel who is posted in Bidung.

Tenzin drove Maureen, John, Scott, and I to Trashigang. We left at 7 am. Portions of the road to Trashigang are in the process of being widened, as are many stretches of roads in Bhutan, so there are roadblocks - places where they decide to just work and not allow cars to pass. This is why we had to leave at 7 to make a 9 am appointment in a place that's only 40 minutes away. Tenzin's small car maneuvered the windy, twisty Bhutanese roads with familiarity.

We joined with the other BCF teachers to not only meet the DEO but also the governor of Trashigang and the vice governor. As BCF teachers we are treated like VIPs. We get to have meetings with important, busy officials and we're constantly thanked and told, “If you have any problems, any whatsoever, let me know and we'll try to fix it.” And we're given tea (even when we don't want it because we've just had tea with another official). It's a strange idea to get used to as we're not very important people. We're a group of people who wanted to explore a new, unique culture and teach while we're at it. We're considered 'volunteers' but our stipends are more than what the average Bhutanese teacher makes.

Below are pictures from inside the courtyard of the Trashigang Dzong, where the governor, vice governor, and DEO have their offices.




After the meetings, some of us went to BOB (the Bank of Bhutan) to open accounts. Tenzin and the other principals did all the work; all we had to do was fill out forms and attach passport-size photos. Tenzin's ultra-helpfulness and attentiveness is part of the VIP treatment - “Ma'am, is that alright?” “I'll help you ma'am.” It's amazing and so helpful at this juncture. It's just hard to wrap my head around - the extremely friendly, above and beyond attention.

After the rush of bank account openings, Scott and I had hoped to have time to explore Trashigang. Instead, we had to rush back to Kanglung before a 1 pm roadblock. After navigating around the intense city traffic - at one point, he had to get out of the driver's seat to play traffic cop - Tenzin drove quickly home through all the dizzying windy roads with Avril Lavigne and hip hop playing from the car speakers. As much as I wanted to fight it, I passed out.

Scott and I spent the rest of the day walking around town, exploring more of the shops in the lower and upper markets. We're gradually getting our place organized and settled; we bought a mop. I can't tackle everything. I still have small piles here and there. The kitchen is the room I'm most concerned with. It's shaping up. We're still awaiting the arrival of a refrigerator (part of the 'furnished' apartment agreement) and some chairs.

Tomorrow is my first day of work. Teachers meetings. I'm feeling a little too relaxed. I should be more nervous or stressed. I guess I will be when the students come into the picture.

If a foreigner is wearing National Dress - the gho or the kira - to a Dzong, temple, or for an important ceremony, that person must wear the kabney if he is a man or the rachu if she is a woman. If a foreigner is not wearing National Dress but instead a formal western outfit, no scarf is required. Tenzin demonstrates how to put on a kabney, the scarf worn by Bhutanese men.




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